By Margaret Swenseid
With all the excitement surrounding Northeast Ohio vineyards, Zesty Cleveland made “sip” stops all over the region to sample wines. While many wineries are great for family excursions and outings, we selected three vineyards that represent the best wines of the region: Harpersfield Vineyards in Geneva, and Conneaut’s Markko Vineyards and Tarsitano Winery and Café. All three share a secret ingredient for success: his name is Dr. Konstantin Frank, a Ukrainian viticulturist who immigrated to the U.S. in 1951.
Working at Cornell University’s Geneva (New York) Experiment Station, Dr. Frank tried to convince New York State vintners to try their hand at European vitis vinifera – the traditional wine grape varieties of Chardonnay, Riesling, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. In New York and Ohio, the native vitis labrusca grape variety had always ruled, producing the sweeter Concord, Niagara and Catawba wines. Dr. Frank persisted and, today, the Markko, Harpersfield and Tarsitano vineyards are the direct beneficiaries of this winemaker’s methodology and cuttings. Not only do all three prestigious vineyards get high marks from wine connoisseurs, but raves from locals and far-away visitors alike. Come discover why these vineyards are some of Cleveland’s “elite.”
Markko Vineyards, Conneaut (open Mon.-Sat, from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m.)
Wine lovers always seem to wax poetic about Markko Vineyards: “You must sample Markko’s wines – they are simply the best!” “Rustic and woodsy” best describe this remarkable winery, as a winding road leads visitors to a low building that is surrounded by trees, a grill, picnic tables and tools of the winemaking trade. Markko is operated by Arnie Esterer, the “granddaddy” of fine European winemaking in Ohio. Arnie began planting Chardonnay and Riesling varietals in 1968 and now, 40 years later, his wines are earning praise from WINE SPECTATOR Magazine.
Esterer is a kind-hearted man who invites visitors to bring their own food while tasting his wines. He also offers guests free samplings of bread and cheese, which he believes are the best compliments to wine.
Tarsitano Winery & Cafe, Conneaut (Check website for winery & cafe hours)
Ken Tarsitano officially opened the Tarsitano Winery and Café in 2001. With a beautiful barn serving as the main winery, visitors can watch Ken, also head chef of the Café, in an open kitchen, performing his culinary wizardry. Using his own wines in many of the dishes, his food presentations are a work of art -- for the eyes as well as the palate. Ken’s menu focuses on a luscious array of steaks, vegetarian dishes and extraordinary homemade pastas.
Ken speaks a mile a minute and his enthusiasm is contagious. He is one of the “new-age” vintners who has gone primarily organic – “the wine gives me less headaches,” he says.
Be sure to take advantage of Ken’s “Pasta Night” on Thursdays, in which customers can build their own pastas-with-sauces for $10. One of his specialties is ravioli made with rosemary and Riesling wine, and filled with gorgonzola, ricotta and artichoke hearts. He inherited many of his recipes from his Italian grandmother.
Harpersfield Vineyard, Geneva (W &Th 1-8 p.m.; Fri & Sat 1-11 p.m., Sun 1-8 p.m.)
Located a little farther south in the Grand River Valley wine region is Harpersfield Vineyard, one of the most beautiful and romantic wineries of Ohio. Owners Patti and Adolf Ribic have created a slice of Europe with their warm and engaging way with guests, their bistro with its walk-in fireplace and the charming Bed and Breakfast Suite overlooking the vineyards. There is nothing casual about Harpersfield magnificent wines, however.
The winery also presents jazz and blues groups under the stars on Friday and Saturday evenings. The Ribics serve French tartes, baguette or croissant sandwiches and gourmet cheese plates in their bistro.
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